When I first moved to New York City, I was aiming to get a job in the fashion industry. And after a few months of applying to any job I could find, I did get a job. It was at a company that made sleepwear for stores like Marshalls, TJ Maxx- AKA fast fashion. I stayed there for a while unsure of what to do, and eventually left to find my way into production work.
My friends who work in the industry introduced me to the world of costuming. I took one class in college about costuming, but I had no idea what this was all about. I believe the general public has no idea what a costume PA (Production Assistant) does. Here’s an explanation on what you should know about becoming a costume PA, including how to get jobs, and how to be successful at it. At least, how to do it in NYC. LA, Atlanta and Toronto are all different systems with different unions and different expectations. I’ve never worked in those job markets so I won’t be commenting on them.
How do you even get started in this?
I will never lie to you, but the hard truth is that this industry is about who you know. As I said before, I was brought in by a few friends of mine who work in the industry in different departments. So, ask around. Even if you do not know anyone in costumes, you can pretty much throw an overpriced coffee in any direction in the five boroughs and hit a self-proclaimed director. From there you can work as a set PA or a PA in another department. That way you can learn the lay of the land, get to know some people, and meet some costume departments. Make it clear that’s the department you want to work in, and someone will inevitably need a costume PA last minute one day. That’s when you’re in.
Also, those costume departments you’re meeting on those sets? Ask them about the Last Looks Google group. It’s an email chain where everyone asks for help with costuming stuff- from “where can I find a bedazzled thong at 3am on a Tuesday” to “I need a PA in like 20 minutes to pick up a pair of shoes from JCrew.” The people you meet in a costume department- any one of them will 9/10 times know what you’re talking about and offer to let you join it. Last Looks is how I landed all of my PA work in the beginning. Once you’ve had a few jobs and people know you exist and don’t suck, they’ll recommend you and you’ll be getting texts from random numbers asking you to work all the time.
What do I need to know going into this? Like… do I need to know how costumes works?
Nope! You can be as green as a broccoli crown and you can do great. In NYC though, it’s imperative you have a driver’s license. If you don’t it will be much harder to pick up work. A good portion of a costume PA’s job requires driving in and out of Manhattan- so be sure you have that license and are comfortable honking at taxis. I promise you, driving in Manhattan isn’t as bad as it seems- remember that it’s really difficult to go over 30mph in most of the island. I had a panic attack the first time I did it but now I literally don’t even bat an eye.
You also need to have a good attitude. Be observant and curious about what the innerworkings of a department does. Ask questions about what the shopper is doing if you’re with them. Ask your coordinator how they like to organize the paperwork. Hell, even ask them how to do cashet. They’ll love that. Anticipating needs of those who are higher up than you will take you far. Literally anyone can be a PA. Even if there are physical limitations for you, you can be a paper PA and enter receipts in to cashet and do other office tasks.
What does the actual day-to-day look like for a costume PA?
This will depend on the production, because depending if it is non-union or union and who is running the shop, it can be vastly different.
You waltz into the costume shop whenever your start time is, mine was usually between 8-9 am. You might get breakfast for everyone at the shop, and after that you tackle packing up returns. If you are new, you’ll want to ask MANY questions about this process because if something goes wrong with returning, it makes everyone’s lives harder. Typically you find a receipt wherever they are kept, you mark off the items on the paperwork what is being returned, and you put it in a bag with the receipt tucked into an envelope which is then pinned to the bag. That envelope? FOLD IT IN HALF SO THE RECIEPT STAYS IN IT. Changed my life when I was taught that.
Then, you may end up going out with the shopper to help them out. There is two ways this can go- maybe the shopper wants to stay in one area for a while, so you park the car in Herald Square for a while. You let them do their thing and you run the bags from the shopper as they purchase back to the car. It’s a lot of running around so you will get your steps in! You will probably have returns with you as well which you will do in-between picking up bags from the shopper. You’ll drive them from place to place if they plan on going from one area to the other, and possibly idle while waiting for them. I would recommend trying to write up purchases in the car- so be sure every car has a clipboard, paper, tape and pens. Your coordinator will explain how to write things up your first day.
In most major shopping areas in Manhattan, you can’t park on the street during the week. It’s also illegal to idle. But alas, it’s expected of you. The key is to remain vigilant about cops around your car. If you get a ticket, most productions will not cover it. So if you see a cop while you’re waiting for a shopper to be done shopping at Bloomingdales, drive around the block and wait again. It sucks. It really does, but it’s part of the job.
Or, perhaps you will be sent out by yourself to do returns. There are two incredibly important rules to follow when doing returns- You do not lose the credit cards. You do not misplace receipts, nor do you let a shop take an original purchase receipt without taking a picture of it first. If these things happen, which they can and will, it will make your coordinator’s job harder. Bring a pouch with you to hold onto every envelope with the receipts inside. Returns days can be very fun because you are out by yourself, podcast in your airpods, doing your job all day. Bonus if there are no fires which require you to go make an emergency pickup for clothing somewhere. The days where you are truly left alone for 8 hours is heaven.
Once again, or, you may be in the office that day as a flex person. Continuing to pack up returns, doing paperwork, handling lunch, running to do pickups or running things to set. These days are also awesome if you get along with your coordinator. I’ve had so many fun and lovely times during these flex responsibility days. Take these days to catch up on any work you may have left behind because of an emergency that happened earlier in the week. Clean up any messes, keep hanger trees full. Make note of anything y’all are running short on- post its, pens, etc, and tell your coordinator. Look busy!
No matter what day you’re having, eventually the shopper comes back with their spoils, and everyone bands together to get all of the clothes hung up, written up, and ready to be seen by the designer that night or the following morning. When doing this there are a few pointers that will help you: hang everything up correctly- the right direction. If your team has a specific order for garments to go in, put them in that order. Any shoes that come in, take them out of the box, take the stuffing out of them, untie the laces, and put them on top of the box they came in. That will make the ACD’s (Assistant Costume Designer) job much easier when they go to set up for fittings.
After that, usually it’s time to go home. It’s been nearly 12 hours or maybe it has been a full 12. Everyone wants to go home and sleep so they can do it all again in the morning.
In NYC the standard rate for a PA is $210/12 hours. It comes out to $15 an hour. Somehow it seems like it is not enough for how much work is put in. At least you get a free lunch and steps closer to where you want to be! But as we fight for better wages, I’m sure it will rise.